Before belaying, tug on the climber’s rope to ensure you have positioned the rope correctly.Take another locking carabiner, and clip the rope loop and the belay device’s cable, and lock the gate shut.Insert a loop of rope into the ATC’s opening keeping the climber’s end of the rope on top (this essentially pinches/locks the brake strand on the bottom in the case of a fall).Clip a locking carabiner into the large metal loop on the device, attach to the master point of your anchor, and lock the gate of the carabiner.
After pulling up the rope from your seconding climber, Ideally, your master point will be above waist level. When building your anchor to belay in guide mode, you’ll want to ensure that you have enough distance to comfortably belay your partner. The benefits of guide mode, outlined in this video: Slower when trading leads, as belayer must re-adjust belay directly to harness.Can be uncomfortable to belay at waist level or below (see video below).Requires owning a guide-ATC device and additional locking carabiner.Easier to belay two climbers simultaneously.It can be easier to escape the belay belayer is not part of system.the device will auto-block the rope and catch a climber in event of a fall If belayer drops belay, falls unconscious, etc.Can provide more comfort because the system is not directly attached to the belayer.Stress is not on the belayer’s body in the event of a fall.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto the system-which bears only the climber’s weight. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso ( not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor. Image: Petzl Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing
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